Blog
2024: A Year in Review
Working Dogs Hercules Mercy and Hercules Mercy and Moolow Hercules Hercules Hercules Hercules Hercules Hercules Hercules Hercules Mercy Mercy Mercy Mercy Mercy Maverick Raven Gryffindor Severine and Zeus Daisy Daisy and Tessa Tessa Ares Severine Tessa Zeus Raven Tessa and Severine with goats Severine and Daisy Ares Ares and Jyn Hercules and Lambo Daisy Jyn and Ares Xena Tessa Daisy and Ares Daisy Daisy Faith Severine Faith Tessa Tessa and Mercy Jyn and Mercy Hercules Jyn and Baloo Hercules, Tessa, Baloo Daisy and Tessa Daisy and Tessa Severine Severine Ares Our dogs are first and foremost working guardians. They live with our livestock, protecting them from the various apex predators we have sniffing around our delicious critters! Here are some pictures from this year of the dogs/puppies doing their job. Show Ring Highlights April – Hercules wins Best Puppy in Sweepstakes at a Regional Show in SoCal May – Sam and Daisy win Best of Breed under Mr Dana Cline June – Shamz did great in BPup at 4 months old June – Shamz, Best Puppy in Show from John Wade June – Jyn, momma dog extraordinaire November – Finished his AKC Championship in a weekend at 8 months! While we didn’t get to very many shows this year, we did get some nice recognition for our dogs! Hercules was awarded Best Puppy in Sweepstakes by Ms. Laura Edstrom-Smith at the ASDCA Regional Specialty in April. Daisy went Best of Breed with Sam handling her under Mr. Dana Cline in Missoula. Jyn was awarded Best of Breed in June, while Shamz her son was awarded Best Puppy in Show at 4 months old in California! Shamz surprised us by winning Best of Breed over many beautiful specials in November. He finished his Championship at 8 months old. Shamz is our first Apex Champion! We look forward to a great 2025, and hope to attend more shows! Two Litters Shazam/Jyn – 2 Males When my mentor lost Shazam, we cried together on the phone. He was a truly outstanding dog. Everyone who met him speaks highly of Shazam. He was a Grand Champion Silver show dog; Janet’s first dog invited to Westminster. He only had one litter in Arizona when he passed, and Janet only had some frozen semen that was low count/quality left from him. She offered me the opportunity to try for a litter with what she had left! Of course, I said YES! Jyn and I traveled to Janet’s, and Jyn got established with Dr. Souther, a local theriogenologist. Jyn stayed with Janet to await her heat cycle, and Janet took her to the vet for all her Progesterone tests and two TCI procedures with 5.5 breeding units of semen. We all knew it was a long shot and that we likely wouldn’t get any pups. I brought Jyn home to Montana to wait and see. To our grand surprise a month later, I saw two pups on her ultrasound! That was confirmed by Dr. Trevor, my therio. Jyn delivered the boys via cesarean section on February 7th after she didn’t progress into active labor on her own. (This is common when larger breed dogs only have one or two pups because the pups start the hormone cascade required for mom to start pushing.) Both boys remain co-owned by Natalie and Janet, and Dr. Souther (who made these miracle puppies!) has Baloo at her property. Shamz lives with Janet at Karaboudjan Anatolians and is learning her goats. He finished his AKC Championship in one weekend this November at only 8 months old! We look forward to seeing him mature. Baloo protects his family and spaniel siblings. We hope to see him shown in 2025. Shamz, New Champion at 8 months old! Demir/Xena – 2 Males, 2 Females Demir belongs to my friends up in Northern Montana (almost Canada!) He protects goats, pigs, poultry, cattle and horses on 200 acres. I was so happy to get the opportunity to breed to this health-tested, working boy! Xena gave us four pups by Demir, and they are growing quickly! Check out their Litter Post for more information. Demir Xena Demir and goats Xena Xena meeting Demir Demir tolerating being stacked by a stranger
The Shedding Truth
Anatolian Shepherd Dogs shed, whether they are working outdoors 24/7 or living with you in your home. You can expect to be cleaning up clouds of undercoat and guard hair at least once, but usually twice each year in the Spring/Summer and again in the Fall to make room for the new winter coat. Indoor Antolians tend to be constantly turning over a lesser coat as opposed to their outdoor counterparts’ blowouts. Two Coats, One Dog Anatolian Shepherds are blessed with double coats. This means that they have two distinct layers to their coat or fur: The outer guard hairs are the longer, coarse hairs that we see their color/pattern on. These hairs are protective, water-wicking, and allow air-flow between them in the summer months. Our dogs drop their guard hair for new once a year. The down coat or undercoat is a layer of dense, soft, downy fur that provides insulation in cold months. It varies from tan to gray tones and blows out twice a year on our outdoor dogs. The Indoor Dilema Double-coated dogs were made to thrive in the elements, outside in all seasons. We can unintentionally change their coat growth cycle when we take our dogs into our heated barns or homes. Many of our clients raise their Anatolians as indoor/outdoor family guardians. This is perfectly acceptable, with the understanding that an indoor/outdoor dog is NOT equipped to be outside in extremely high or low temperatures like a full-time outdoor Anatolian is. It’s expected that an indoor Anatolian Shepherd Dog will shed year-round. They may put on more coat seasonably if we take them outside frequently in cold winter temperatures, but they will need our attention and support if they get too cold. So what happens when we bring our Anatolians inside? Two primary artificial factors will trigger their body to release coat out of season: heat and light. Daisy in Spring/Summer Coat Daisy in Fall/Winter Coat Climate Control Here in Montana, we will see temperatures lower than -30ºF in January and February. These are also the two primary months for heating our houses and animal shelters if we have young or otherwise compromised livestock. The wood stove runs overtime in the coldest months to keep the humans and indoor critters comfortable. There are times where it does make sense to pull a dog in, check their paws and ears for injury/frostbite, and generally thaw them out for a good once-over. I do these checks with my bare hands, and I’m not going over a dog outside when it’s more than 20 below zero. I like my fingers too much! 10 or 20 minutes inside is not going to have any negative effect on my dog, and it will absolutely save my fingers. It’s a win-win. When I take a dog from freezing temperatures outdoors and bring them into a building with artificial heat, they will usually gravitate toward a door with poor seal or tile flooring to keep cool. Prolonged exposure to the heat in the middle of winter can trigger their body to think it is Spring and time to shed out their undercoat. This can have disastrous consequences for the dog when they return to duty outside. Hypothermia, frostbite, and other serious health conditions can be caused by bringing an outside dog into the house. Artificial Light Similarly to the wood stove’s heat, we have lights all over the house to help us see where we are going and avoid tripping on the kids’ boots in the middle of the floor (again!). Lights are a big part of our indoor life, right up there with heat and indoor plumbing. The issue comes when the dog starts getting more than 14 hours of light exposure per 24 hour period. Just like we can trick our chickens into laying eggs year-round by giving them 14 hours of light per day with a little white bulb in their coop, our dogs also take stock of light hours to signal when the season is shifting towards summer when they will need to shed that downy undercoat. When we bring our working dogs inside in the winter, it’s very possible to accidentally trigger an unintentional or seasonably inappropriate coat change earlier than the outdoors would have. How to Prevent Unintentional Coat Change To help keep our dogs in coat to thrive outside in winter, we must limit their time in artificially heated and artificially lit spaces. Whether that’s a barn stall or your home, the effect is the same. Pay attention to your dog! When he goes and plops down at the door, let him back out. We have the ability to manage our dogs’ coats by keeping them in the environment they are acclimated to. If your Anatolian is in/outdoor with you- that’s fine! You just need to monitor them outside for signs of discomfort and be ready to help them when necessary.
Demir x Xena 2024 Litter
Xena blessed us with 4 beautiful little puppies on November 27th, 2024. Two males and two females, this smaller litter is thriving and getting plenty of food! Rowan, Male, Brindle Black Mask Forrest, Male, Fawn Black Mask Maple, Female, Fawn Pinto Ash, Female, Brindle Pinto Easton Acres Demir C Xena Rule About the Sire: Demir (Rising Phoenix Aslan Yurekli x Shepherds Rest Aravis)Lives in far Northern Montana on the Canadian border, protecting a variety of livestock on 200 acres. At 5 years old Demir had never been stacked prior to meeting Natalie. He has a solid, large frame and smooth movement through the pastures. Natalie’s favorite part about Demir is his temperament. He understood his job to alert when Natalie arrived, but then he was easily called off by his owners. He was a total gentleman and not pushy with Xena. Demir’s Health Testing Results
Nutrition Focus – Ca:P and Protein
What food does the Apex Pack eat? Puppies <24 months: Muenster 26/18 Adults >24 months: Muenster 30/20 Easy keepers (put on too much weight on Adult food): Muenster 26/18 Video Transcript:Nutrition. Yay. So every dog needs to eat. It is best for them to have a balanced diet. Yes, you can get that with raw. It is just more work for you. If you are interested in feeding raw, I’m not going to go into that much in this video, but if as long as you are working with a veterinary nutritionist who knows what they’re doing and is experienced and good at their job I’m okay with it. If you are going off the internet, or if you are just making rice and chicken, or beef liver, or whatever please don’t. Please feed your dog a balanced diet, and just Please don’t wing it for your dog. At least for the first two years. So this breed is slow growing. They really aren’t done until about three. Now their skeleton is pretty done around two and then they’re filling out they’re putting on their muscle mass. They’re pinching out their ribs. They’re doing the final touches in that third year or second year into the third year. So basically what I think we should go over is What the requirements are and what to watch for in your food. And then I’ll touch on a little bit of what we feed. And it is perfectly acceptable for you to feed the same thing that I feed. It is also perfectly acceptable for you to transition to something you can actually get locally. Let’s go over real quick the calcium-phosphorus link. and what it means. So when we have calcium and phosphorus, they are required together to essentially grow bones and muscles and make your body function. There’s a calcium-phosphorus loop in each and every cell. And when we have dogs who we are overdoing one or the other, It can throw off their balance, it can throw off their growth rates, it can make them grow their skeleton at a higher rate or a lower rate. And it can just affect how they grow and how they can move in this body that has been directly affected by our poor choices. On dog food, typically what you’ll see is you’ll see a percentage or you’ll see a gram. And it’s going to be a minimum guaranteed, not a maximum guaranteed, which means it could be more, but this is the minimum that you will have in your dog’s food. You want the calcium and phosphorus to be as close to a 1 to 1 ratio as possible. So if your calcium percentage is like 1. 2 percent dry matter, you’d want your phosphorus to be like 1. 1 or 1. 2, a 1. 2 to 1 can get a little iffy and you’ll see it in some different diets. So and let’s just talk about some different options of diets. Anything that is like AFCO approved, which is just who tells people how to do their jobs. With balancing pet diets in the U. S. Canada tends to follow AFCO as well. Because they are in America after all. Oh, we just forget that sometimes. So basically, if you have it labeled as an all life stages dog food, it has to meet or exceed the requirements and the strictness for the most particular life stage which is a large breed puppy. So anything that out there that is labeled all life stages should be safe for your Anatolian puppy where we get into the weeds a little bit is when you have an all life stages that is a grain free. Gluten free. Any sort of marketing tactic to make you feel like the food is more human grade or better quality because of words that they slapped on the bag and not because the label on the back of the bag is a red flag. So I don’t want to, I don’t want you to feel bad if you are currently feeding like wellness or blue Buffalo or These fancy pants, boutique y brands that advertise to humans rather than formulating to dogs. But let’s just focus on the back panel. Okay here we feed the Allsages maintenance food, which is 26 percent protein, 16 percent fat, and the rest is carbs. That is what our puppies get. Thank you. There is two primary reasons for this. One, it is balanced and it is safe for large breed puppies. Great. The second reason is that they need those carbs for their energy. The carbs are what keeps them going and keeps them, happy. Just like us. They are able to directly convert fat to energy. From their diet unlike us. We also need carbs for our brain to function, which I prefer it when my brain is functional so that’s nice, but the 26 percent protein is low enough that it is not encouraging them to grow at a faster rate than they need to. So by, by using a maintenance diet that is good for all stages, we are not encouraging overgrowth. We’re not encouraging the puppy to grow faster. You will see some people with Anatolians who are like, Oh my, my six month old puppy is 85 pounds. He’s so massive. People who measure their personal value and success based on the largeness and substantiality of a puppy. That should be going through slow, sustained growth, ideally who are overfeeding and doing on purpose to just make them monstrous have other issues that I am not qualified to address. Like they should probably seek help. So please don’t feed your puppy to the point where you’re like, oh, yeah, he’s beating everyone else he’s the top of the litter for weight Because what I can tell you is that the biggest puppy in the litter today Will not be the biggest adult puppy in the litter it has never failed me that the biggest the most big puppy at eight weeks old is never the largest because they do not live in a litter. their whole lives. They go home with you. They might live with one or two other dogs, but they’re not competing with eight other puppies for food and attention and everything else. And there’s no scarcity. There’s no scarcity here, but typically in litters, like there is one who eats more than everyone else and that’s why they’re bigger. But when everyone else gets their own food bowl at home, they can surpass that eater faster. And people are always confused by this, but the weight amount in a litter does not hold up over time. So never consider that for selection, please. Half the time, the smallest puppy, who’s just not very like dominant and not very aggressive when it comes to feeding time and just hangs back and waits for everybody else to be done and just picks up whatever’s left. Like that’s my job to address. It’s not the puppy’s problem, but if that puppy is allowed to just take what he gets and don’t throw a fit and he’s just very easygoing and nice, the minute they get home, they start growing a lot because they’re catching up and they do surpass the biggest bully puppy of the litter usually, which is just funny. So don’t select a puppy for being compact either cause it’s probably not going to see that way. So basically. Same. We want slow sustained growth. If you have a brand of food that you like, I send you home with some of the 2616 that they’ve been on. And I would just ask that you slowly transition them to your new food and not just, take them 100 percent one day to the next. Usually you start like 25 percent to 30 percent your new food mixed with their current diet. And then maybe do that for two or three meals and then add a little bit more, go up to like half and half for a few meals and then 60, 40, 70, 30 type thing for a few meals. And then you’re probably gonna be out of the food that I sent you. And then you can just feed them what you wanted to feed them, but just make sure that label holds up. And it is not super high protein not super high fat. And the biggest reason is that the K cals in the amount of food that you’re feeding your puppy does not need to be huge, but you do want them to get the sense of satiation. So you want them to feel full at least twice a day. And we’re just training the dog how to eat and they’re eating more quantity with less calories. with a 26 16 diet than they would be with a 30 25 or the 30 32 which is an Intense diet for like sled dogs running the Iditarod. It is not for the puppy sleeping on the couch Okay, that is how we get overweight dogs, and it is never kind to feed a dog to be overweight we need to find better ways to express our love for our dogs than by overfeeding them and if you need ideas on how to Tell your dog that you love it other than giving it treats all the time. Let me know. If you are a treat person, use their kibble as treats. Do not buy jerky treats or liver treats or anything else because any treat that you are feeding in large quantity relative to their meals is gonna throw off that balanced diet. So just use the balanced diet as the treats. If you are a treat a holic and you love treats, Use their food. They don’t need to eat out of a bowl. Bulls are actually not required, and many trainers say that the bulls are the devil. if you have time and you have the energy feed your dog their meals by hand as treats, as reinforcement as I love you. Thank you. That, that is perfectly acceptable. What is not acceptable is just loading them with calories because you love them. So let’s not do that. Okay. I hope this helps. If you need more information or more details because you’re science y, just let me know. All right. Bye.
SportDog Invisible Fence
We have gotten a lot of questions about our fencing and how we keep our dogs contained. We have 47″ tall woven wire steel field fence that makes up our pens. The fence is perfectly adequate for our Kunekune pigs, hair sheep, Jersey cow, and puppies. However, our older livestock guardian dogs could easily hop out of our fences at any time. Especially when we have 2-3 feet of hard snow pack along the fence line. The way we have chosen to address this is to utilize the SportDog 100A Invisible Fence System. Here is a video about how we set up our system: And here is the LGD Invisible Fence shopping list (of affiliate links that cost you nothing extra, but support our dogs. Thank you!) if you want the same products we use here. Special Notes: SportDog 100A JUST THE BOX (You’ll save money by avoiding a rechargeable collar and crappy wire by buying the lone box). Order one collar per dog!These are the collars we use, because they take 9 volt batteries that last 2-4 months. The SportDog collars currently available are re-chargable and require charge every 8-12 hours. Order Enough Wire for your fenceline + double the distance to where you will put your transmitter box indoors.This is the wire we use. Use as few rolls/pieces as possible to keep the boundary line strong and prevent loss of loop. Use Splices to join your wire pieces together along the boundary line.These are rated for outdoor use. You can use other splices, but the moisture and dirt can affect your loop quality. Zip Ties secure your boundary wire to your physical fenceline. Get enough for every other fence post.Bright colors are easily spotted if they fall, but you can use any color you like! Keep spare 9 Volt Batteries on HandYou don’t want to run out of these for your collar(s). Keep them in the fridge, they will last a long time!
NEW STUDY: LGDs Deter Grizzly Bears
There is a new multi-year study regarding how livestock guardian dogs deter grizzly bears in Montana. Two of our puppies were placed with a family in this recent LGD study by Utah State University and the Montana, Fish Wildlife and Parks. We are honored to have our dogs participating in active research regarding predator management in our area. The Study found that livestock guardian dogs (Anatolian Shepherd Dogs and Kangal Dogs used in this study) are effective deterrents of grizzly bears in areas of previous conflict. Conducted on the Eastern front of the Rockies here in Montana, this study measured many factors about the participating livestock guardian dogs, including how they patrolled and established territory around homes and grain storage. From Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks: This multi-year case study, led by FWP’s bear specialist Wesley Sarmento and Julie K. Young, associate professor at Utah State University, reveals the significant role LGDs can play in coexisting with recovering populations of apex predators. “.. our experiment shows that an ancient human technique is effective and increasingly relevant in modern society with recovering carnivore populations. … As carnivore populations declined, so did these ancient practices. Now rewilding is requiring relearning these often-forgotten techniques, but before now, to our knowledge, no scientific tests have been conducted on the efficacy of LGDs for protecting farmsteads. LGDs are one more tool in the toolbox to help keep people safe while coexisting with recovering populations of apex predators.” Highlights from the study: • 87% reduction in bear GPS collar locations near homes after placement of LGD • 58-fold fewer camera detection of bears near homes with LGD compared to those without LGD • Ag Producers had positive experiences with LGD, considered them effective, and would recommend them. Check out the study here: https://fwp.mt.gov/binaries/content/assets/fwp/conservation/bears/young-and-sarmento-2024-lgd-efficacy.pdf